Chic Recap: Sabyasachi is okay with fakes, wants to be more affordable

Chic Recap: Sabyasachi is okay with fakes, wants to be more affordable

It’s not often that a seemingly-reclusive fashion genius steps out of his workshop to share philosophy on work,  design and life. Last night, Sabyasachi Mukherjee had a heart-to-heart conversation with Boman Irani on Teachers’ Achievers’ Club (Star World). Take a look:

The designer, in his trademark white kurta-churidar and black waistcoat amazed me with his bluntness, sharp wit and unconventional views.  Some fun fashion-related tidbits from the show:

After Sabyasachi’s first collection, ace designer Rohit Bal complimented him, saying Sabyasachi was “the best designer ever”. Unfortunately, his second show got bad reviews and Sabyasachi made sure that didn’t happen again.
As we already know, Sabyasachi is a proponent of Indian textiles and handicrafts and has always said that Indian women look better in saris. He insists our traditions and past should be embraced, and more Indian women should wear traditional garments and weaves. I’m inspired, really. I’ve promised myself I will wear a sari on one day of Lakme Fashion Week.

During the interview Sabyasachi panned the West’s over-arching influence and approach to fashion. He said: “[I don’t like] the West’s patronising attitude just because they’ve mastered marketing and packaging.” That’s perhaps the most politically incorrect statement a designer could make.

Sabyasachi’s five-year plan is to make his label affordable for everyone in India. Can’t wait for that day!

He also hopes to direct a movie some day– and the costumes may not be designed by him.

The designer may be dressing Vidya Balan, Rani Mukherjee and Sridevi, but his mom doesn’t wear his saris. She says they’re unaffordable, especially “when there are other good saris available for Rs 800”.

Sabyasachi knows there are tonnes of fakes floating around, but he doesn’t mind that, as long as it “empowers karigars in some way.” Noble thought, no?

Sabyasachi-Star World

One word for this creative genius: R-E-S-P-E-C-T.

2013 Crystal Ball: Shopping trends, big fashion headlines

2013 Crystal Ball: Shopping trends, big fashion headlines

Loving the lingerie
Women are enjoying the sexy inner wear options they’re getting online, from lacy corsets to G-strings. And there are plenty of websites to choose from (Zivame, Peri Peri Skinwear and Straps and Strings). Now I wouldn’t buy a bra without trying it on first, but things like straps, stockings and free size tube tops can be bought easily!

(Lace leggings from Zivame.com)

Zivame-Caprice Designer Stretch Lace Leggings

My precioussss!
From a diamond engagement ring to a polki necklace,  people may  end up buying fine jewellery online.  I’m sure our moms would prefer to go to the trusted family jeweler,  but hey, who has the time, right?

Niche wins
If you’re a gothic-loving young lady, or a new mom, or a designer-obsessed fashionista, there are already brands (and websites) especially for you. And you will get plenty more options this year.

Your favourite brand- now a click away
More brands, big and small, will take the online route in 2013. Many Indian and foreign fashion, accessory and jewellery brands have already adopted online shopping (Bombay High, Forever New, Shoppers Stop, Metro) and many more will follow this year. Zara’s India website seems to just a payment gateway away from ecommerce.

Forever-New-homepage

Big news to expect in 2013:

“[Online brand] sponsors big fashion event.”
Online fashion brands have got big marketing bucks to spend, and they will. Zovi, for instance,  is sponsoring the GenNext show at Lakme Fashion Week coming season.

“Indian designers introduce affordable lines”
Anita Dongre ventured into menswear last year, and has several affordable options in waistcoats, bandhgalas and sherwanis. Sabyasachi, meanwhile,  has quietly launched a line of saris that are under Rs 10,000. Word is that he’s on the lookout for investors to expand this sub-brand (called Sabyasachi by Sabysachi), and it’s likely he will find some in 2013.

“H&M to open in India”
Now that single brand retail ventures can have 100% foreign investment, I’m hoping H&M, Topshop and others make their “We’re coming to India” announcements soon. I am very very keen on shopping at Dorothy Perkins!

Chic 2012: The Bollywood Fashion Story

Chic 2012: The Bollywood Fashion Story

In the movies

Cocktail’s three lead actors’ looks, all styled by Anaita Shroff Adajania, were a major part of the pre-release publicity blitz. Everyone wanted to know about Diana Penty’s jumpsuit and Deepika Padukone’s skirt. And no one really asked much about Saif Ali Khan, because he looked too old to be in the movie.

Cocktail Fashion

No one cared much about the clothes in Ishaqzaade, though I found the costumes in the movie to be among the most intelligently designed in recent Bollywood history. I can’t imagine Parineeti Chopra’s character without the black waistcoat over a fitted kurta.

Parineeti Chopra-Ishaqzaade-8

The fashion in Jab Tak Hai Jaan and Student of the Year fell flat after high expectations. But where one lacked charm and romance, the latter’s mantra was “Brands, brands, brands” without a sensible story to tell.

Student of the Year

On the covers

The surprise fashion mag cover girl find of the year was Kalki Koechlin (Women’s Health in November and Vogue the following month), while editorial favourite Sonam Kapoor appeared in Roberto Cavalli yet again on the cover of Grazia. (Yawn).

Kalki-Koechlin-Vogue-India-1-786x1024

On the small screen

Amitabh Bachchan’s jackets and bandhgalas on Kaun Banega Crorepati were superbly elegant and finely tailored by Rohit Bal. Karan Johar donned casual- dressy blazers on Jhalak Dikhhla Jaa, while Salman Khan’s Bigg Boss wardrobe was confusing (too many colours and styles).

Madhuri Dixit and Karan Johar in Jhalak Dikhla Ja

Most people loved Madhuri Dixit’s Jhalak Dikhla Jaa clothes and jewellery, and her stylist made it a point to dress the actor in outfits from various Indian designers. No bodycon dresses for her!

Surprise style icon

Sridevi had been under the fashion watchers’ radar for a while now, but in 2012 she surprised everyone with a new-found, elegant look, wearing Manish Malhotra and Sabyasachi. She wowed everyone when she walked for the latter in Delhi, a far cry from her stumbling ramp appearance in an ugly silver-grey gown for Neeta Lulla couple years ago.

Sridevi for Sabyasachi Couture Week 2012

Not (yet) an icon

Alia Bhatt may have had a big debut with Student of the Year, and appeared on two covers (Vogue and Grazia), but her personal style quotient was quite blah. The problem? She tried too hard to look cute.

Alia-Bhatt-in-Amit-GT-on-Grazia-India-December

Bollywood Fashion: Sabyasachi dresses Sridevi as typical shypical housewife in English Vinglish

Bollywood Fashion: Sabyasachi dresses Sridevi as typical shypical housewife in English Vinglish

English Vinglish is among the most heartwarming movies I’ve seen recently and Sridevi’s performance was real, moving and tear-inducing. And the lucky leading lady has had the chance to wear Sabyaschi Mukherjee on-screen for the first time. (He wasn’t The Big Thing during her heydays).

As Shashi Godbole, Sridevi’s costumes are apt, true to the character and take her through the most exciting journey in her life. The clothes bind Shashi and set her free, they blend her into the crowd and make her stand out.

Sridevi in English Vinglish

Sridevi’s Look

Shashi Godbole is a typical Maharashtrian housewife- she puts family before self, loves making laddoos and has simple tastes. Sabyasachi and Gauri Shinde (the director) have underplayed the clothes in the movie, but if you’re an avid fashion buff, you’ll see the fashion arc as the story progresses.

Shashi Godbole is not a fashion follower nor is she ostentatious, so you won’t see her in sequins (not even on the wedding day) or low-cut blouses. On a typical day, she prefers cotton saris with a border and Indian hand-woven motifs or prints. Her colours are carefully chosen Indian palette: blues, greens, pinks, maroons. No Yashraj-style shaded saris or flowing georgettes- she is about sensible dressing, not sensuality. Hence the hanky curled in her hand at all times, and the long choti (plait).

Sridevi in English Vinglish

In bed, she wears light cotton saris (like the one below)- mostly white ones with small prints. I remember seeing my grandmom wearing those kind of saris almost everyday, they kept her cool in hot and humid Mumbai and seemed to be easy to drape.

Sridevi in English Vinglish

Sridevi in New York

Once in the US, Sridevi begins to experiment a bit. It’s her way of looking good in a big city where she is an obvious misfit because of her clothes and language problems. Some interesting pieces from the NYC wardrobe:

· Tiny Indian-style checkered saris with contrast borders (one sari has multiple borders)

· Bolder colours and prints for the days she’s happy (I spotted a couple of Sabyaschi’s standard prints- like this one below).

Sridevi in English Vinglish

· Playing with textures- a single sari has a hand-spun cotton pallu and pleats with a lighter hued body that could be in cotton silk.

Sridevi in English Vinglish

Sridevi imitates Elizabeth Taylor

The trench-coat-over-sari picture that you’ve probably seen in the publicity stills is the only style statement in the film with a story behind it. While shopping in India, Sridevi tries on a trench coat at a mall, only to be mocked at by her husband. In New York, she watches The Last Time I saw Paris in which the elegant Elizabeth Taylor wears a trench coat. Out steps Shashi, wearing a trench coat, in the peak of summer, right under the blazing sun. It’s a liberating moment for Shashi, and if you’ve ever been told what not to wear by someone, you will know exactly what it feels like.

Sridevi’s accessories

In true Maharashtrian style, Shashi dons minimal jewellery, wearing what most married Indian women wear- mangalsutra, thin gold bangles, gold baalis and tiny studs. Sometimes there’s a thin black watch, and of course there’s a bindi.

Shashi’s handbags are Hidesign’s Estelle and Arno- functional as multi-purpose bags to store a dozen things, including some stationery for English class. 🙂

Sridevi with the Estelle bag

PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012 begins today

PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012 begins today

Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI)’s PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012 kicks off this evening in New Delhi with Varun Bahl’s show.

FDCI PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2012

FDCI has unveiled a creative look for the event- one image for each day. Each of these five images highlights tools that help create couture garments- from the mannequin torso to the humble iron. These intricate designs remind me of Indian royalty, and are the result of several brain storming sessions with the FDCI creative committee (David Abraham, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rohit Bal and Suneet Varma) and the graphic design company– Bombay Design House.

I think it’s a brilliant concept- my favourite images from the series are that of the sewing machine (Day 4 Green) and the clothes hanger (Day 2 Purple).

PCJ Delhi Couture Week Day 4 Green

PCJ Delhi Couture Week Day 2 Purple

Meanwhile, I’ve got a wishlist of the shows I’d like to watch:

  • J J Valaya
  • Varun Bahl
  • Anamika Khanna
  • Manish Arora
  • Shantanu & Nikhil
  • Manav Gangwani
  • Sabyasachi

Yup, fashion at PCJ Delhi Couture Week promises to be stunning!

PCJ Delhi Couture Week is a “By Invitation Only” event by Fashion Design Council of India, held in New Delhi from August 8 to 12, 2012.

Bollywood Fashion: Fashion in London Paris New York, Kahaani and Agent Vinod

Bollywood Fashion: Fashion in London Paris New York, Kahaani and Agent Vinod

Most Bollywood releases over the past few weeks have been quite unexciting on the fashion front—there have been no “Wow!” fashion moments or interesting looks that get me hooked in the promo itself. Even so, there’s been something noteworthy in some of the movies, so here’s a quick look at the fashion in London Paris New York, Kahaani and Agent Vinod.

London Paris New York

Ali Zafar plays the typical rich brat-cum-stud while Aditi Rao Hydari is the pseudo-bohemian feminist. They meet in the cities in distinctly different looks—from clean shaven to French beard for the guy, and from dishevelled hair to chic bob for her.

London Paris New York

Ali Zafar’s look: From funky tshirt to a more refined look with coordinated accessories—loved it!

Aditi Rao’s Hydari’s look: If you’ve seen the movie promo, you’ve seen it all. Interestingly, the makeup stays the same—the lips just morph into various shades of red (darkest in Paris).

What I liked: I absolutely loved Ali Zafar’s style statement in New York. Muffler, jacket and oh, that Hermes belt! Oooh, and I also loved his contrast collar shirt. Take a look:

London Paris New York

What I didn’t like: There was much more scope to experiment with Aditi Rao Hydari’s look, besides the hair and makeup. Very ordinary clothes, but maybe that was the point of the character.

Chic Tip: Get Ali Zafar’s shirt at Zara!

Zara contrast collar shirt

Fashion rating: 3.5/5

Kahaani

In a movie like Kahaani, there isn’t much scope for awesome fashion and styling. The costumes are well thought-out and appropriate for Vidya Bagchi’s simplicity- from the night wear (tshirt and pyjamas) to the long cotton dresses that a pregnant NRI woman may wear.

Vidya Balan in Kahaani

What I liked: The clever yet effortless layering (like a lace slip peeping out under maxi dress), simple unobtrusive prints, and use of high street brands like GAP. Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s signature was all over Vidya Balan.

Vidya Balan in Kahaani

What I didn’t like: While the clothes in the movie aren’t glam or trendy, it’s because they are not supposed to be. The right costumes help in characterisation after all. So nope, nothing to dislike as such.

Fashion rating: 3.5/5

Agent Vinod

When a blue-blooded actor and his hot girlfriend star in a spy thriller shot across the world, you expect charm, mystique, charisma and dollops of style. Unfortunately didn’t get much of any of those things in Agent Vinod.

Saif Ali Khan- Kareena Kapoor in Agent Vinod

What I liked: Couple of Saif Ali Khan’s shirts (I believe some of them are from Arrow). Too bad he spent most of his time looking haggard. You see him at his stylish best(!) in the song Pyaar ki Pungi, which is not saying much at all. Kareena’s carrying some high fashion stuff like a Tod’s bag, and she looked the best in the auction wearing a very low-cut dress, covering up with piles of metallic gold necklaces.

Agent Vinod-Kareena Kapoor

What I didn’t like: While Kareena Kapoor looks great and clothes are quite alright, her wardrobe was inconsistent at best. She was completely unconvincing as a doctor, and her too-wide range of styles failed her character as well. And the bright pink sharara she wears in the mujra song Dil mera muft ka didn’t excite me at all. It was like been there, seen that! Manish Malhotra needs a break.

Agent Vinod-Kareena Kapoor mujra

Fashion rating: 3/5

LFW S/R 2012 crystal ball: What to talk about this fashion week

LFW S/R 2012 crystal ball: What to talk about this fashion week

Eighty-three designers will present their collection at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/ Resort 2012, ranging from the well-established Anita Dongre and Sabyasachi Mukherjee to the debutantes Megha Garg and Archana Rao.

LFW Participating Designers and Sponsors for Summer Resort 2012 - 2

But what will the people at fashion week really talk about? Some predictions as I peek into the fashion week crystal ball:

Bibhu Mohapatra’s show: This will be the New York-based designer’s first fashion week showing in India, and with his international fan following, I predict a packed house for his show on Saturday evening and plenty of fawning after that. But will Bibhu buzz be louder than (Rohit) Bal buzz? Can’t say!

Indian textiles: This season the third day of LFW S/R 2012 is dedicated to Indian textiles, with designers showcasing Indian weaves and fabrics. There will also be workshops on the resurgence and importance of Indian weaves and crafts, in which designers like Krishna Mehta, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Bibhu Mohapatra will participate.

Nina Manuel: Nina Manuel is back in India and has landed the LFW TV gig. The leggy super model will bring a regular dose of behind-the-scenes fashion, interviews and more on LFWTV.in.

Non-designers-turned-designers: From hair stylist Sapna Bhavnani to artist Payal Khandwala, fashion “outsiders” are taking a bold step into the fashion world at LFW S/R 2012. I’m really intrigued to know how their varied experiences translate into fashion. Good luck to them!

Mumbai’s missing: Word on the street is that Manish Malhotra has pulled out from LFW S/R 2012 because he didn’t have time from his Bollywood schedule to put together a collection. But the Mumbai designer I’ll miss most is Nachiket Barve (I always love his clothes!).

Below: Rohit Bal, Narendra Kumar, Swapnil Shinde

Rohit Bal, Narendra Kumar & Swapnil Shinde at LFW SR 2012 Press Conference

“Haven’t I seen that somewhere?”: Every fashion week as new collections roll out on the ramp, there’s a sense of déjà vu. Designers repeat themselves, get inspired by movies, actors, and, of course, Rajasthan. Let’s get over that already. I want to see original fashion, please!

Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 runs from March 2 to 6, 2012 in Mumbai.

LFW W/F 2011 Day 3: Sabyasachi weaves magic again, one silver thread at a time

There’s always a buzz at Lakme Fashion Week when one of India’s best-known designers Sabyasachi is due to present. Fashionistas, journalists and ordinary folks wear their precious Sabyasachi outfits to the show. Photographers wait in anticipation of Bollywood actors, but there’s a respectful hush as the show starts and the first model walks out.

This season, at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011, Dr Mitul Sengupta danced to kathak beats ending with a series of chakkars, then calmly began chanting classical beats as models glided on head ramp.

Models in pairs and groups resembling North-West Frontier Province families (with kids) strolled out in elegant kurtas, tunics, cholis, sherwanis, dupattas, and wide Patiala salwars and palazzos. The monotonous canvas in the initial garments were balanced with colourful printed dupattas and turbans.

Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011 Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

Then came the splashes of colour—first as long coats and cowled pants, then as printed saris with silver borders in zardozi and Kashmiri thread work.

Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

The silver embroidery was a stark contrast to the gold and bronze detailing that are in vogue these days, so it was a bold move to say the least. 🙂 I particularly enjoyed the embellished bodices and shimmering wide borders with velvet and net.

Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

Headgear played an important role with turbans for men, and embellished caps and headbands for women.

Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

Also noteworthy was the Urdu calligraphy on a couple of blouses. Fashionista Sabina Chopra, wearing the same blouse, later told me it meant “bheegi palkein” or wet eyes.SAbina Chopra at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

Sabyasachi retained his favourite flavours with Sundarbans floral prints, colours like earthen colours and red, orange and white, fabrics like khadi, organza, silk, and his signature immaculate tailoring. The special moments—senior models like Carol Gracias and Nayanika Chatterjee, children in fine Sabyasachi clothing, and creative concept of presentation—were appreciated by the audience as they clapped and cheered throughout the show. Well-deserved applause, to say the least!

Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011 Models at Sabyasachi LFW W/F 2011

Chic News: LFW W/F 2011 gets 87 designers, big names (Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka, JJ Valaya)

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011 kicks off August 16, 2011 and this season’s designer line-up is super-exciting—by sheer numbers and names.

Some of the top designers to showcase their collection on the LFW W/F 2011 ramp:

  • Rina Dhaka
  • Rohit Bal
  • Sabyasachi Mukherjee
  • JJ Valaya
  • Narendra Kumar Ahmed
  • Wendell Rodricks
  • Nachiket Barve
  • Archana Kochhar
  • Pria Kataria Puri
  • Anita Dongre
  • Manish Malhotra (grand finale)

Below: From Sabyasachi’s LFW S/R 2011 collection, from Anita Dongre’s Timeless collection at LFW S/R 2011

Sabyasachi Mukherjee LFW S/R 2011 Anita Dongre Timeless LFW S/R 2011

And some of the other leading fashion designers include:

  • Swapnil Shinde
  • Shivan-Narresh
  • Little Shilpa
  • Debarun Mukherjee
  • Babita Malkani
  • Aneeth Arora
  • Parvesh & Jai
  • Babita Malkani
  • Rajat Tangri
  • Kallol Dutta
  • Shyamal & Bhumika Shodhan

Below: From Debarun Mukherjee’s LFW S/R 2011 collection; from Little Shilpa’s collection at LFW S/R 2011

Debarun Mukherjee LFW S/R 2011 Little Shilpa LFW S/R 2011

Which designer’s collection are you looking forward to at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011?

Chic News: LFW W/F 2011 gets 87 designers, big names (Rohit Bal, Rina Dhaka, JJ Valaya)

Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011 kicks off August 16, 2011 and this season’s designer line-up is super-exciting—by sheer numbers and names.

Some of the top designers to showcase their collection on the LFW W/F 2011 ramp:

  • Rina Dhaka
  • Rohit Bal
  • Sabyasachi Mukherjee
  • JJ Valaya
  • Narendra Kumar Ahmed
  • Wendell Rodricks
  • Nachiket Barve
  • Archana Kochhar
  • Pria Kataria Puri
  • Anita Dongre
  • Manish Malhotra (grand finale)

Below: From Sabyasachi’s LFW S/R 2011 collection, from Anita Dongre’s Timeless collection at LFW S/R 2011

Sabyasachi Mukherjee LFW S/R 2011 Anita Dongre Timeless LFW S/R 2011

And some of the other leading fashion designers include:

  • Swapnil Shinde
  • Shivan-Narresh
  • Little Shilpa
  • Debarun Mukherjee
  • Babita Malkani
  • Aneeth Arora
  • Parvesh & Jai
  • Babita Malkani
  • Rajat Tangri
  • Kallol Dutta
  • Shyamal & Bhumika Shodhan

Below: From Debarun Mukherjee’s LFW S/R 2011 collection; from Little Shilpa’s collection at LFW S/R 2011

Debarun Mukherjee LFW S/R 2011 Little Shilpa LFW S/R 2011

Which designer’s collection are you looking forward to at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011?