WIFW S/S 2013: Day 1 Recap

WIFW S/S 2013: Day 1 Recap

Atsu Sekhose
With crisp whites and vivid prints, Atsu’s collection had immensely wearable separates.

WIFW SS13 Atsu

WIFW SS13 Atsu

Geisha Designs
The “Edwardian” theme was a tad confusing- the mini capsules ended up being a mixed bag of looks. Though there some gorgeous rich pieces in gold, the theatricality of some gowns tended to be jarring.

WIFW SS13 Geisha Designs

WIFW SS13 Geisha Designs

Anand Kabra
Lime green with gold is a wonderful summer combination, and the mosaic prints would look great on skirts, pants and kurtas. The Indian wear is ot too festive, but can be a good summer wear for elegant ladies who wear saris casually.

WIFW SS13 Anand Kabra

WIFW SS13 Anand Kabra

Kiran Uttam Ghosh
Playing with sheer and opaque is not new, but Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s approach to this “trend” is fresh. She used asymmetricality, neat embellishments, layering and multi-cultural influences to create wearable artful garments (plenty of geometric shapes). I spotted a couple of outfits I’d like to own!

WIFW SS13 Kiran Uttam Ghosh

WIFW SS13 Kiran Uttam Ghosh

Payal Pratap
Payal Pratap’s collection has the usual Indo fusion elements, though it makes up for the theme with the detailing- like cross stitch and minute geometric embroidery. The gypsy gilets are quirky wardrobe updates!

WIFW SS13 Payal Pratap

WIFW SS13 Payal Pratap

Surily
Aztec prints have been on the international ramps since the past few seasons, so Surily’s Aztec and geometric patterns did not seem edgy or fresh though they are quite wearable. Fringes and flirty elements are part of the Surily brand, along with the pop colour palette (fluorescent yellows, tangerine and pinks).

WIFW SS13 Surily

WIFW SS13 Surily

Wendell Rodricks
I got a feeling of deja vu on seeing Wendell Rodricks’ SS13 collection. Despite the repetitive moments, there were several pieces that made the collection worth a peek- especially from the Malacca-inspired part of the collection. The lungis, long tunics, colours and texture mix (linen + sequins + satin silk) make for very cool summer pieces.

WIFW SS13 Wendell Rodricks

WIFW SS13 Wendell Rodricks

Dutch Fashion Here & Now India
The show was a cross-culture, cross-country fashion collaboration between Indian and Dutch fashion designers (Suneet Varma with couturier Jan Taminiau and Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna of CUE with *DIED* ), along with several fashion and cultural reps from the two countries (for makeup, music, photography) The show was theatrical, dramatic and almost couture-like.   I especially loved the “darkness” of *DIED* (by iederik Verbakel and Marieke Holthuis).

WIFW SS13 Dutch Fashion

WIFW SS13 Dutch fashion

Accessories of the day
Jalli bangles at Payal Pratap, hair accessories at Geisha Designs, block heels at Anand Kabra (AKA Bespoke for Anand Kabra).

WIFW SS13 Payal Pratap

WIFW SS13 Geisha Designs

WIFW SS13 Anand Kabra

WTFashion Outfit of the Day:
Geisha Designs– lace strands hang down from certain body parts- not sure if this is a curtain, lamp shade or an outfit. Let’s call it the Mystery of the Hanging Lace?

WIFW SS13 Geisha Designs

WIFW A/W 2011: Day 1 Trends

Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2011 kicked off April 6 morning with designer Neeru Kumar’s show (her runway debut). The key trends of the day:

Playing with fabrics and textures

Fashion designers played with fabrics to create modern silhouettes. Neeru Kumar used a mix of wool, cashmere, linen, cotton and silk to shape garments that defined a woman’s curves. Urvashi Kaur draped hand-loomed fabrics and weaves like chanderi, tussar, woven silk, self patterned linen and wool jersey added an element of surprise to the garments. Also, the mix of colour and textured fabric at Akaaro was a wonderful experimentation of weaving techniques.

Below (left to right): Neeru Kumar, Pankaj & Nidhi, Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta

Neeru Kumar Pankaj & Nidhi WIFW Akaaro by Gaurav Jai Gupta

Colours for winter

Rehane gave their collection a warm feel with yellows and oranges, while Urvashi Kaur’s colour palette varied from indigo, violet, electric blue, lime to yellow, green and red. Geisha Designs chose colours that colours symbolising the earth’s crust—mercury grey, lava red, storm violet, sea green and Atlantic grey.

Below (left to right): Rehane, Urvashi Kaur, Geisha Designs

Rehane WIFW dress Urvashi Kaur at WIFW A/W 2011 Geisha Designs at WIFW A/W 2011

True to tradition

We saw traditions-inspired collections throughout the day, from Urvashi Kaur’s hand-loomed fabric and weaves like chanderi, tussar, woven silk and self patterned linen to Geisha Designs’ hand-crafted techniques like batik dyeing and crochet. Pankaj & Nidhi’s Woven Chemistry collection used the Japanese technique ‘sashiko no donza’, a form of intricate quilting and embroidery, along with other mat-like weaving technique creating garments that were strong, defined and textured. Even Mona-Pali’s very modern collection had a rustic charm.

Below: Mona-Pali

Mona-Pali WIFW A/W 2011

Voluminous silhouettes

From soft flowy gowns and dresses at Geisha Designs to Arjun’s A-line skirts and billowy sleeves and trousers, volume ruled the ramps. At Varun Bahl, loose ribbons around waistlines, sleeves and hems added a 3-dimensional voluminous look along with scalloped skirts, clever use of asymmetry and ballooning effect on sleeves.

Below (left to right): Arjun, Varun Bahl

Arjun at WIFW A/W 2011 Varun Bahl at WIFW A/W 2011