LFW W/F 2011

It was an elaborate set made of giant wooden frames and a clock-mechanism appearance– perfect for the final show of the five-day extravaganza Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011.

Manish Malhotra’s collection was as dramatic as any Bollywood movie. Making the most of chikan work and silver and resham embroidery, the ace designer created a collection of breathtaking festive and wedding wear that introduced a few new elements while retaining the Manish Malhotra signature.

The silhouette for women was of graceful panels and flared lehengas and gowns. Manish paired swirling lehengas, well-constructed cholis and saris for women, with elegant jackets and corset blouses. Embellishments were everywhere– on the sleeves, down the front, on jackets and cholis, along with multiple borders.

Manish kept the colours tones festive with white and candy floss pink, in contrast to black, wine, gold, pale grey, metallics and cherry red. We noted that the designer had mixed, matched and clashed colours for a strong impact. For instance, a grey kurta with a longer bright pink lining, or orange and pink in the same outfit! The opulent clothes were stitched from rich fabrics like lace, chiffon, silk, net and velvet, while most dupattas were kept sheer.

For men we saw sherwanis and long coats with wide cuffs, pleats and gathers, even as some coats were lean and layered over kurtas. The colours were masculine (black, grey, wine), albeit with a hint of fuchsia for collars and cuffs.

And oh, in case you haven’t heard already, Kareena Kapoor was the showstopper (she is also the face of Lakme Absolute, on which Manish’s collection was based).

Some of the ideas from Manish Malhotra’s show we’d like to steal immediately:
1. Two dupattas for a single outfit… nice! (My mom earlier spotted this on Shah Rukh Khan in Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham)

2. Thick/ multiple borders

3. Neutral/ pastel outfits with a pop of colour in the detailing, jacket or dupatta

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 5: Aneeth Arora layers again, Kallol Dutta loves geometry

Speaking ChicSeptember 7, 2011Leave a comment

On the closing day of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011, Aneeth Arora artfully used fabrics from across India for her trademark layered creations. Meanwhile, Kallol Dutta showcased geometry in his collection in more ways than one.

Pero by Aneeth Arora
Aneeth Arora’s collection at LFW W/F 2011 was an advanced lesson in mix-and-match. She mixed fabrics, silhouettes and colours as she layered a whole range of garments in her show.

The young designer highlighted the skills of Indian weavers, using fabrics from different regions of India. It wasn’t just her favourite khadi that we saw, but also kota, doria, chanderi, linen and wool, all expertly layered for cooler weather. She mixed textures and silhouettes from the onset—the opening model wore a crochet baniyan with a khadi skirt, chanderi shirt and jamdani scarf.

We enjoyed the choice of colours, that included peach, lilac, wine, ash, brick, rose and military green that were fused together as simple shirts, structured trousers, jackets, jumpsuits, and even shrugs and overcoats.

While layering is not new to Aneeth Arora or to the fashion world, we noted that this clever layering was something we could keep in mind for next summer as well.

Kallol Dutta 1955
The word “unconventional” best describes designer Kallol Dutta, and while his colour palette is usually monotonous, his outfits are striking and impactful.

In a seemingly simple collection, Kallol gave his own twist to simple garments like jackets, dresses and trousers. The prints were seemingly taken from a high school geometry book, and detailing like braids, tiny pleats, frayed edges and tassles made all the difference.

Kallol used wool, wool blends, silk, satins, nets, voiles, kora silks, gauze and calico in black and white (with hints of blue and pink) for garments like palazzo pants, multiple hoodie, disjointed waistcoat and askew dress.

Yes, unconventional is the right word for Kallol Dutta. We could also add quirky, crazy and out-of-the-box to the list.

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 5: Digvijay Singh stays true to organic Bhu:sattva, Vivek Kumar prepares for inner battle

Speaking ChicSeptember 7, 2011Leave a comment

From ethical fashion to fashion designed for a revolution, Digvijay Singh for Bhu:sattva and Vivek Kumar presented collections that gave us plenty of food for thought on Day 5 of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011.

Digvijay Singh for Bhu:sattva
With its certified organic fabrics, Bhu:sattva stands for ethical fashion and for the brand’s Geometrees collection at LFW W/F 2011, designer Digvijay Singh used natural vegetable dyes and block prints on saris and drapes.

Digvijay Singh combined botanical and floral embroidery with Mughal geometry to create gorgeous, yet simple saris. Gujarat’s khatla embroidery was extensively used with detailing on on shoulders, sleeves and back. Small beads, applique and cutwork broke the monotony, as did the two-toned checks and saris in colours like brown, black, blue and green.

We enjoyed the collection for its immense wearability and versatility.

Vivek Kumar
My thoughts as the first outfit of the show appeared on the ramp: “The designer’s got to have a creatively twitsted mind!”

It isn’t easy to describe Vivek Kumar’s collection. There were dresses and gowns, but it wasn’t just about the outfits. Nor was it about the knitted bonnets with spiky studded projections. It was about all the small things that made Antarkranti (inner revolution) an astounding collection.

The models were geared up for battle in fluid silhouettes in sombre colours like black, grey and steel that made way for green, orange and rust. Steel studs, zippers and sprays of sequins adorned the nets, knits and batik fabrics. The detached long sleeves, knee high stockings, hand knitting and inserted stitches added to the drama on the ramp.

The clothes weren’t meant for immediate retail, but Vivek Kumar’s innovative approach is bound to be loved by fashion lovers everywhere.

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 4: Wendell Rodricks brings pristine to the ramp

Speaking ChicSeptember 6, 2011Leave a comment

Ethereal. Sensual. Organic. Three words to describe Goan designer Wendell Rodricks’ collection at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011. Designed with Himalayan mineral water in mind, Wendell played with soft pastels and splashes of fuchsia in natural fabrics like natural dyed cotton linen and pure silk.

The collection was divided into four segments, each with a distinct approach. The first segment, Naturally Yours, had linen as the base with natural flowers and bark, in colours like pristine white, yellow and wood.

The second, “Indian Water”, would have been great as evening wear. Silk was used in tunic dresses, pin tucked and layered kurtas; and sunray pleats for tunics.

In Mountain Brooks with Sparkling Water, Wendell used ripple pleated fabric to achieve sparkling water detailing in gowns, ponchos, and a pre-stitched sari. The final segment (Raani Pink Carpet Glam) was dedicated to glamourous evening wear like katftans and sari gowns with hints of shimmer and sparkle on the waist, straps and back.

While there were minimal accessories, we loved the specially-made footwear and the odd statement necklace and cuff, some made of nature-inspired materials.

What do you think of Wendell Rodricks’ purity-inspired collection?

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 4: Drashta makes waves, Rehane presents unfinished garments

Speaking ChicSeptember 6, 2011Leave a comment

Drashta
Marine life has served as inspiration to fashion designers since aeons, and Drashta Sarvaiya is among the most recent ones to have caught the bait (pun intended). At her show at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011, Drashta’s focus on marine life reflected in the fluid silhouettes, shell cut-outs and motifs, marine prints and colours that reflect the ocean (think aqua and sea green).

But that wasn’t all. Drashta also played with colours and detailing as she introduced pastels (mauve, pink) and neons (electric, fuchsia) on one-shoulder short and halter neck dresses with touches like capes and crystals.

The most interesting bit of her collection was the expert ruching along with the quirky accessories placed on the waist and neck. The accessories were handmade pieces created from pearl finish and hot neon leather, and coral shell and fish cut-outs. Cute!

Rehane
Rehane, the designer known for her baby doll and cocktail dresses, dared to step out of her comfort zone at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011 with a new concept. This all-white collection was created with raw mulmul and kora fabrics and left unfinished with notes to tailors for alterations. (You could read “Check line” and “Cut here” on skirts and blouses).

The models walked barefoot on the ramp in slow motion, their limbs, faces and hair covered in talcum powder. Rehane later said her collection was inspired by the purity of a woman “Meera”. But we also felt that somewhere among the purity was the woman who is lost, struggling to hold on to her innocence and on the verge of being delusional.

Despite the blank colour palette, Rehane had worked meticulously on garment construction and detailing. There were rouches, gathers and pleats on blouses and yokes, uneven hemlines and even cholis with cowls. Silhouettes were mixed, as a tunic was paired with a pencil skirt and a loose cover-up had an empire line gathered body.

We left the show with mixed feelings—a tinge of sadness (the mood was sombre), but happy because we had just seen a designer’s fresh take on fashion.

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 3: Sabyasachi weaves magic again, one silver thread at a time

Speaking ChicSeptember 6, 2011Leave a comment

There’s always a buzz at Lakme Fashion Week when one of India’s best-known designers Sabyasachi is due to present. Fashionistas, journalists and ordinary folks wear their precious Sabyasachi outfits to the show. Photographers wait in anticipation of Bollywood actors, but there’s a respectful hush as the show starts and the first model walks out.

This season, at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011, Dr Mitul Sengupta danced to kathak beats ending with a series of chakkars, then calmly began chanting classical beats as models glided on head ramp.

Models in pairs and groups resembling North-West Frontier Province families (with kids) strolled out in elegant kurtas, tunics, cholis, sherwanis, dupattas, and wide Patiala salwars and palazzos. The monotonous canvas in the initial garments were balanced with colourful printed dupattas and turbans.

Then came the splashes of colour—first as long coats and cowled pants, then as printed saris with silver borders in zardozi and Kashmiri thread work.

The silver embroidery was a stark contrast to the gold and bronze detailing that are in vogue these days, so it was a bold move to say the least. 🙂 I particularly enjoyed the embellished bodices and shimmering wide borders with velvet and net.

Headgear played an important role with turbans for men, and embellished caps and headbands for women.

Also noteworthy was the Urdu calligraphy on a couple of blouses. Fashionista Sabina Chopra, wearing the same blouse, later told me it meant “bheegi palkein” or wet eyes.

Sabyasachi retained his favourite flavours with Sundarbans floral prints, colours like earthen colours and red, orange and white, fabrics like khadi, organza, silk, and his signature immaculate tailoring. The special moments—senior models like Carol Gracias and Nayanika Chatterjee, children in fine Sabyasachi clothing, and creative concept of presentation—were appreciated by the audience as they clapped and cheered throughout the show. Well-deserved applause, to say the least!

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 3: Debarun goes B&W, Shyamal & Bhumika play with rich colours and crafts

Speaking ChicSeptember 3, 2011Leave a comment

The 5.30pm show on Day 3 of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011 was easily the most contrasting dual-designer show of the season. While Debarun Mukerjee kicked off the show with a starkly black-and-white collection, bridal wear experts Shyamal and Bhumika Shodhan’s clothes were rich in colour and embellishment.

Debarun Mukerjee
Aptly called Kohl, Debarun’s creations ranged from saris, lehengas, churidar-kurta sets, dresses and gowns for women and sherwanis, kurtas, bundgalas for men.

Using applique throughout the line, Debarun made the most of the two-colour palette with clever use of fabrics (net, Chanderi, raw silk, silk), accessories (scarves, bags, flat chappals) and detail (floral motifs on yokes, dupattas and across the front).

Shyamal & Bhumika
Trust Shyamal & Bhumika Shodhan to sweep the audience away with their luxurious and opulent festive wear, apt for brides and guests at grand weddings alike. The designer duo presented traditional garments like jamas, chogas, peshwaz, achkan, panelled lehengas and cholis in velvet, net, brocade, matka silk, tissue and shot silk georgettes. Jewel tones like wine, honey gold, aurora and beet red, burnt orange, gold, copper, and peacock green, added to the richness.

Shyamal & Bhumika re-introduced flared shararas with floor-length anarkalis, and dressed women in slim sherwanis with diaphanous skirts. Sexy cholis were paired with panelled lehengas. As for the embellishments, we could write pages! They played with zardozi motifs and jaals, wire Marodi embroidery, washed gold, copper, peeta and gota work, along with precious jadau stones.

The show had two showstoppers, Hema Malini and Esha Deol. Needless to say, Shyamal & Bhumika don’t need Bollywood to wow fashion lovers, their fashion is enough!

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 3: Pria Kataaria Puri mixes glam, Middle East and punk

Speaking ChicAugust 30, 2011Leave a comment

Persia and 1970s punk make an unusual sartorial combination. Yet the two concepts fused together wonderfully in Pria Kataaria Puri’s Persian Punk collection at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011.

Even though the collection was mostly chic resort and holiday wear , the tunics, one-shoulder blouses and gowns could just as easily be worn for an evening out. While the silhouettes were fluid, Pria experimented with fabric and fits for a cheeky effect. For instance there was a mini with fish tail sides, disc-shaped sleeves, a gold moulded sheeted mini and a delicate black beaded kimono sleeve cover.

Using various kinds of silks, Pria’s garments were inspired by Persian embroidered fabrics like nomadic patch work, button work, gold ribbons and cord work. We especially liked the printed leggings—they’re quite eye-catching! Hot orange was the colour of the show (we absolutely loved it!), while beige, black and brown also made an appearance with shimmer and shine. Interestingly, the prints had buttons as motifs!

Jewellery from the Cappuccino Collection were perfect complements to the clothes featuring gorgeous champagne coloured diamonds from drop earrings to bangles.

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011, Men

LFW W/F 2011 Day 2: Narendra Kumar jazzes up menswear with a swingin’ show

Speaking ChicAugust 30, 2011Leave a comment

There was live music, dancing and some very polished gentlemen. No, it wasn’t a dance club from the mid 20th century, but Narendra Kumar’s show at Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011. The collection, presented to a live rendition of Frank Sinatra’s Fly me to the moon, comprised formal evening wear for men.

It was one of the few shows we girls could swoon, whistle and cheer (it was a virtually all-male show). Each model did a little jig or dance step on head ramp, spreading the joy of music and rhythm.

The collection’s focus was bespoke suits (especially classy tuxedos). The colours were beyond black—deep sapphire, wine, green, pale pink, midnight blue, along with neutrals. The men looked dapper in single and double breasted jackets, with broad, narrow, peak and notched lapels. The tuxedo lapels were inspired by Japanese kimonos, while we also saw draped and cut away collar jackets and the iconic “smoking”. The trousers were sexily slim with turn-ups.

The fabrics were just as luxurious with Dupion silks, velvet, smooth Ari silk, patterned and textured handloom silks and brocades. The beautiful jackets had hand and machine embroidery, quilting, appliqués and motifs from the Art Deco and Nouveau periods.

We were almost disappointed when the fun show came to an end, though Kabir Bedi in a white brocade tux and some more singing provided some cheer. 🙂

In Fashion, LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 2: Nachiket Barve, Little Shilpa, Swapnil Shinde interpret speed

Speaking ChicAugust 27, 2011Leave a comment

On Day 2 of Lakme Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2011, DHL presented a trio of designers representing the future of fashion—Nachiket Barve, Little Shilpa and Swapnil Shinde. While all three designers are a few seasons old, their approach was fresh as they interpreted the brand’s theme—speed—in in their own personal ways.

Nachiket Barve
Seeking inspiration from the the fast-changing colours of a breath-taking sunset (The Golden Hour), Nachiket Barve used pink, golden, purple, and red hues in his garments and accessories. Playing on the ombré effect, the designer created saris, tunics, kurtas and dresses in his signature fluid style. Sequins, polki detailing, cutwork and applique were expertly used to create timeless global fashion wear. We also liked the matching neckpieces and clutches.

Little Shilpa
Shilpa Chavan’s interpretation of speed was flight and the urban landscape—birds, wings, aeroplanes and skyscrapers. Her models walked the ramp encased in sky and clouds boxes made from packaging material, while the headgear was made with pleated ikat fabrics and feathers that framed the face. Aviator glasses were used as hair bands and glass pieces symbolised eflection.

Swapnil Shinde
Swapnil Shinde’s LFW W/F 2011 collection was based on sound waves, hence named “Speed of Sound”. Swapnil created ripple-inspired shapes with folds, pleats and drapes in fabrics chiffon, taffeta, organza, and crepe, along with materials like acrylic, PVC and leather. PVC rolls and tubes were the most cleverly-used embellishment (for lack of a better word), seen on the bodice, waist and shoulders of dresses and gowns. The soft drapes falling across the front of the garment in waves added to an elegant, high-fashion look.

Showing all posts in LFW W/F 2011

LFW W/F 2011 Day 5: Manish Malhotra dazzles in the grand finale

LFW W/F 2011 Day 5: Aneeth Arora layers again, Kallol Dutta loves geometry

LFW W/F 2011 Day 5: Digvijay Singh stays true to organic Bhu:sattva, Vivek Kumar prepares for inner battle

LFW W/F 2011 Day 4: Wendell Rodricks brings pristine to the ramp

LFW W/F 2011 Day 4: Drashta makes waves, Rehane presents unfinished garments

LFW W/F 2011 Day 3: Sabyasachi weaves magic again, one silver thread at a time

LFW W/F 2011 Day 3: Debarun goes B&W, Shyamal & Bhumika play with rich colours and crafts

LFW W/F 2011 Day 3: Pria Kataaria Puri mixes glam, Middle East and punk

LFW W/F 2011 Day 2: Narendra Kumar jazzes up menswear with a swingin’ show

LFW W/F 2011 Day 2: Nachiket Barve, Little Shilpa, Swapnil Shinde interpret speed