Friday Films: Chutney and La La Land for food and fashion

Food Film: Chutney

An extra marital affair, small town gossip, an annoyed domestic help and a seemingly-innocent housewife are blended expertly to create the intriguing story of Chutney. As the special chutney recipe is revealed, the home-grown green chillies are not the only secret ingredient we discover. Tisca Chopra’s performance is stellar as she shares her recipe and narrates a sinister tale. Meanwhile, I’m craving samosas with spicy chutney.

Watch Chutney here if you haven’t seen it already.

 

Fashion film: La La Land

La La Land is a delightful musical journey. Even several days after watching the film I couldn’t get City of Stars out of my head. Aside from the breath-taking view of Griffith Observatory and the Hermosa Beach pier, I was taking mental notes on the costumes. There was none of the sloppy-but-standard jeans and tee combos for the sweethearts. Emma Stone’s chic and flattering dresses in solid yellow, blue, peach and green have given me major fashion goals, while Ryan Gosling’s always-dapper look should hopefully inspire gentlemanly dressing.

La La Land fashion yellow dress

La La Land fashion peach dress

Bollywood jewellery, Minawala style

Over the decades, most creative fields in India (from dance to fashion) have been strongly influenced by Bollywood and the people who make it glamourous. This season, it’s Minawala’s design team that’s caught the Bollywood bug and has created a collection that follows Bollywood trends and style.

I got a good look at the Bollywood by Design collection when I visited the Minawala store last week. The range is about drama, glamour, beauty, grace and charisma. In jewellery trends, this has been translated into colour, exclusivity, highly stylized contemporary designs, and of course, a touch of OTT.

Take a look at these colourful earrings from the Minawala collection:

Minawala earrings  Minawala (140) Minawala (141)

Minawala Jewellers diamond necklace

Rightly so, there were also plenty of diamonds in the collection, used artistically with precious and semi-precious stones to create several multi-coloured pieces of jewellery. The stand-out pieces were statement earrings, oversized cocktail rings and multi-tiered necklaces.

My favourite piece? This kada featuring beautiful diamonds in several cuts.

Diamond cuff from Minawala

Some fashion tips I picked up from the Bollywood By Design jewellery:

  • Fashion is fickle- it changes every season. But jewellery trends are everlasting. Invest in a few good pieces and you could wear them forever, unlike clothes which you need to discard every season or at least once a year.
  • Go OTT with jewellery when you want to look glamourous like the stars. Team your diamond jewellery with a stylish dress or gown for an evening out. It’s okay to “over dress”, but make sure you don’t resemble Diwali fireworks.
  • Use colour (plenty of it!) in clothes, accessories and jewellery. While fashion dictates specific colours every season, jewellery trends don’t usually follow such rigid stories, which makes choosing your jewellery easier.
  • Wear a statement piece of jewellery for an elegant look. It could be dangling earrings, an eye-catching cuff or ring. Diamond jewellery can be worn on all occasions, but is best suited for classy, tasteful style.
  • While we usually choose our clothes first, and then our jewellery, why not try dressing the other way round once in a while? Pick the piece of jewellery you wish to highlight, then put together the rest of your ensemble. 🙂

Minawala’s Bollywood By Design collection is available at Minawala stores in Mumbai, New Delhi and Bengaluru.

Bollywood Fashion: Sonam Kapoor does a double desi, which Indian look should you wear?

Bollywood Fashion: Sonam Kapoor does a double desi, which Indian look should you wear?

Sonam Kapoor- the fashionista. Sonam Kapoor- the willingly typecast actor? In both her new releases (Raanjhanaa and Bhaag Milkha Bhaag), the young actor is seen in similar desi girl styles, although from different eras. Even so, it would be tough to pinpoint an outfit from a specific movie.

Sonam Kapoor in Bhaag-Milkha-Bhaag

Sonam Kapoor is the typical small-town girl in the movies- demure and tongue-tied in the 1950s-based Bhaag Milkha Bhaag; and educated and confident in the present day Raanjhanaa.

Here’s my take on Sonam’s looks from both the movies.

Sonam Kapoor as Zoya in Raanjhanaa

Costume Design: Payal Saluja

Sonam Kapoor in Raanjhanaa

In this movie set in Varanasi and Delhi, Sonam Kapoor starts off as a pretty school girl (Zoya) who evolves into a shrewd college graduate with a political inclination.

Sonam’s clothes in Raanjhanaa feature deep Indian earthy colours that blend well into Varanasi’s crowded markets. She’s mostly wearing cotton kurtas with contemporary prints, that include paisleys and geometric Indian designs. These prints are quite commonly spotted in Indian stores, and are perfect for the girl-next-door that Sonam plays.

The kurtas have a border with a hint of embellishment or detailing (like gold thread work), and her outfit is completed with a contrasting dupatta. Sonam’s accessories are mostly jhumkas of various colours, shapes and sizes, carefully paired with her ensembles. As a look, Zoya’s style is easy to achieve and imitate if you’ve got the right mix of kurtas (available everywhere) and jhumkas (those too).

Sonam Kapoor in Raanjhanaa

BTW, I’ve noticed recently that most actors playing young women from small-town India are spotted in colourful kurtas and jhumkas (example: Kangana Ranaut in Tanu Weds Manu). Are there no other accessories available to these girls?

Sonam Kapoor as Biro in Bhaag Milkha Bhaag
Costume Design: Dolly Ahluwalia

In Bhaag Milkha Bhaag, Sonam Kapoor’s Biro is a typical 1950s girl. Living in not-so-dandy conditions near the railway tracks, she steps out to fill water from the community tap every morning. Her Punjabi attire is a super-short kurta, and, surprise surprise(!) a patiala salwar. And there’s a contrast dupatta again, with her red chunnari playing a somewhat significant role in Milkha Singh’s life and memories.

Sonam Kapoor in Bhaag-Milkha-Bhaag

I’m not sure if this is what young Punjabi women wore in the Fifties, but if they did I hope they know the short kurta-patiala combo wasn’t really flattering. The extra wide patiala salwars and voluminous gathers that Sonam wore aren’t exactly meant for well-built Punjabi women. But the mismatched print combinations and floral prints were just right– portraying Sonam as a lower middle class girl who has little time or inclination to do matchy-matchy to make it in time for the tap water. Her rustic appearance is kinda rustic with unstyled hair and plain kada and balis (so no makeup, and almost no accessories).

Sonam Kapoor in Bhaag-Milkha-Bhaag

It won’t be a good idea to try aping Sonam Kapoor’s Bhaag Milkha Bhaag look, as you would most likely come across as a behenji in 21st century India. Milkha Singh’s legend may live on, but the fashions from his era most certainly don’t!

Bollywood Fashion: Get Deepika Padukone’s Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani looks in just one step

Bollywood Fashion: Get Deepika Padukone’s Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani looks in just one step

Deepika Padukone can wear almost anything and look pretty in it. In Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani her character Naina wears a whole variety of clothes and looks great in all of them. Unfortunately,  Deepika’s looks in the movie are as stereotyped and predictable as the storyline, sometimes inappropriate and sometimes just bizarre. I’m not too impressed with costume designer Manish Malhotra’s styling for this movie.

Either way, if you want to adopt Deepika Padukone’s looks, here’s a simple one-step guide to the three key looks she dons in the movie.

Geeky student

Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani Deepika Padukone

The plain Jane Deepika wears squarish geeky glasses that indicate her studiousness, with simple printed dresses covered up with a light jacket or cardigan. Her straight hair is pulled back into a ponytail or held back with a hair band. BTW, on cold nights, while camping in the Himachal outdoors, Deepika looks surprisingly cozy in knee length dresses!

One step look: Dark rimmed glasses.

Transformation time

Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani Deepika Padukone Balam Pichkari

Deepika Padukone’s transformation from geeky girl to sexy lass was completed in the most predictable way– by getting drunk, swapping the spectacles for contact lenses, and ditching the comfortable outfits for tiny shorts and prancing around during Holi (when most Indian women want to stay indoors).

One step look: Hot shot pants

Head-turning hottie
Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani Deepika Padukone Ranbir Kapoor

Once the transformation was complete, we didn’t get to see much of Deepika until a grand wedding in Udaipur. At the wedding, Deepika is pretty much the centre of attention with tiny blouses and low waist lehengas. With her low neck kurtas that are barely concealed by a dupatta, Naina is ultra feminine and desi sexy.

One step look: Midriff-baring lehenga or tight kurta.

Which Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani look do you want to try?

Chic Preview: Kai Po Che fashion is “nondescript” says Niharika Khan

Chic Preview: Kai Po Che fashion is “nondescript” says Niharika Khan

I’ve been watching the trailers of Kai Po Che over the past couple of weeks,  and  it doesn’t seem to be a movie high on fashion. The costumes are underplayed and “ordinary”, given that the story is about ordinary middle class boys in a semi urban setting.

image

But like all (good) movies, there’s careful thought,  research and planning effort put in to make the costumes an integral part of the film, building characters and giving the story time and location context. I spoke to the film’s costume designer Niharika Khan about her approach to this script and how she dressed the lead actors. Here’s what she said.

The Fashion Look
You read the script,  have a long chat with the director and present to him the framework of the movie’s look. In the case of Kai Po Che, the film is set over a period of 10 years starting in 2000. We wanted the look to follow a certain pattern. The fashion was to be nondescript. There’s so much happening in the film and we wanted the focus to be in the film not the clothes.

The Lead Characters
Sushant Singh Rajput’s character Ishaan is an athlete,  a cricketer who has a bit more money than his two friends but doesn’t know what to do with it. He’s not interested in fashion and it would be his dream to play cricket in ganji and shorts.

Raj Kumar Yadav (Govind), on the other hand, is a typical Gujarati baniya, but he knows that how he looks is how he will be perceived.  So he goes out of the way to look good and though it’s nothing slick,  it is correct.  He probably gets his clothes done by a tailor. Amit Sadh’s Omi craves to emulate people like his best friend. He’s mostly in chappals since he needs to go in and out of the temple where his father is head priest.

image

Costume Research
Since the film’s setting is lower middle class Ahmedabad in 2000, I studied the textiles and fabrics to see what was available for me to do the costumes. Everything was tailored according to the film’s context and the characters. The idea was to be as local as possible. For instance,  Omi would perhaps wear a block printed shirt with trousers. What emerged was a dark colour palette for the leads and their families. The only character in bright colours is Vidya, played by Amrita Puri. She is a tad fashion-conscious.

On the Actors
The three young actors are very talented and have distinct personalities. And when you have a successful movie,  of course people will want to look like them. So people  Ishaan would wear an India jersey,  or vest and shorts, while Omi would wear a block printed shirt with corduroys.


UPDATE (February 24, 2013):

My Take:
I saw Kai Po Che this weekend and thought that the costumes were just right given the characters and context. Most noteworthy was the arc of Amit Sadh’s character Omi. As a priest’s son, he wore locally made block print shirts in bright colours. But with his transition into an aspiring politician, he grew a moustache and began to wear long cotton kurtas. The uneven/ roughish texture of the fabric made it seem like hand spun cotton, for which Gujarat was once known.

Kai Po Che releases February 22, 2013 across India.

Bollywood Fashion: Inkaar’s style will make you want to work in advertising

Bollywood Fashion: Inkaar’s style will make you want to work in advertising

Inkaar’s fashion is kinda agency-style cool. You’ll want to wear Chitrangada’s pencil skirts or Arjun Rampal’s blazers. Either ways, it’s a stylish introduction to ad agency fashion though agency guys will tell you they dress cooler and way more relaxed. After all, they can get away with chappals to office and Simpsons tees on a regular working day.

Inkaar- Arjun Rampal and Chitrangada Singh

If you want to dress for success, join an ad agency, or just know how to dress like either of the two super-hot actors, read on.

Chitrangada Singh: Awkward junior to bitchy boss
Maya Luthra’s transition from a gawky copy writer to National Creative Director (NCD) is documented through varying levels of bitchiness and change in wardrobe.

Inkaar- Chitrangada-Singh

So from baggy printed peasant blouses, messy hair and chin piercing, Maya gradually moves to crisp blouses, designer accessories, formal dresses and blow dried hair. Her put-together look (by Nick Roy) and choice of accessories might be too jarring for a chilled-out work place. Statement neck pieces,  Louis Vuitton belt, and well-coordinated totes would stick out like a sore thumb among the Angry Birds slippers and Fab India kurtas. But hey, Maya’s NCD and I know women would want to dress like her (including me).

Inkaar- Chitrangada-Singh

The only fashion faux pas were the few “revealing” outfits Chitrangada wore. The unwritten “no-cleavage-in-office” fashion rule was broken, and the sari blouses covered way too little though there was good reason to highlight her sex appeal.

Inkaar- Chitrangada-Singh

Get Chitrangada Singh’s Inkaar look:
Team a pencil skirt with a pastel blouse that flatters your skin tone and figure. Accessorize with solitaire earrings (real diamonds if you can afford them), killer pumps in neutral or pop colours, and a statement watch.  Apply nude makeup with special focus on the eyes.

Inkaar- Chitrangada-Singh

My favourite piece: The pencil skirt!

Arjun Rampal: The suave, smart CEO

Arjun Rampal’s character Rahul Verma is a small-town guy who has made it to the top and is now “grooming” young talent (which involves sleeping with the new girl). He seems to be the serious type– staying aloof,  not smiling much, and wearing dark-rimmed spectacles. BTW,  those glasses make him look handsome in a geeky sort of way. The mature look by Niharika Khan suits the actor wonderfully.

Inkaar-Arjun Rampal

His workwear choice is semi-formal and smart casual, such as shirts with smart jackets and blazers. The colour palette is largely blue and grey with some additional subdued colours that a career man would wear. I especially liked the dull green blazer with elbow patches.

Inkaar-Arjun Rampal

Get Arjun Rampal’s Inkaar look:
Wear a lightly-coloured formal shirt with interesting detailing such as a contrast placket, collar or cuffs. Add a blazer in a colour of your choice with slim fit trousers or dark jeans (depending on where you work). Put on a pair of glasses that suit your face shape, preferably with dark rims. Skip the tie, but do wear lace-up or slip-on leather shoes.

My favourite piece: The glasses—they would make any man look instantly mature and sexy! 😉

Magazine Update: Dior, Diesel steal covers in November

Magazine Update: Dior, Diesel steal covers in November

Dior gets three

Dior has made it to three fashion magazine covers this month- a good hit rate (and well-thought strategy). So you see Dior cover Vogue ( on Shweta Nanda), GQ (Ajay Devgn), and Marie Claire (Soha Ali Khan).

Soha Ali Khan in Marie Claire Nov 2012

I could imagine Shweta Nanda in Dior. Maybe even Soha Ali Khan (she’s got royal blood). But never Ajay Devgn- he’s too rugged, too massy and too unfashionable for high fashion, right?

Ajay Devgn in GQ Nov 2012

But Vijendra Bhardwaj, who’s styled Devgn on the cover and photo feature, has got the actor looking surprisingly at ease comfy in designer wear. Or maybe it was Devgn’s best-kept fashion secret or he’s a brilliant actor. Nevertheless, Vijendra’s done an excellent job in this shoot.

Vogue goes social?

Meanwhile, I am surprised with Vogue’s choice of cover girl- they had earlier made a shift from top models to Bollywood stars. Are they moving to the high-class social circuit now? It’s highly possible, given that Bollywood is quite devoid of classy and fashionable folks and that the Bollywood-loving audience may not be the ideal (or real) Vogue reader. Wait and watch!

Shweta Nanda on Vogue India

Roberto Cavalli for Sonam Kapoor– again!

A couple years ago, Sonam Kapoor shot a spread for Vogue with Roberto Cavalli at his mansion in Italy, wearing only the designer’s creations. In November’s issue of Grazia, Sonam’s done a repeat (though not at the Cavalli mansion). Sonam dons Cavalli on the cover and in the photo feature. Too bad there’s no mention of any exclusive contract or deal.

Sonam Kapoor in Grazia Nov 2012

Diesel cares about Women’s Health

Women’s Health is not exactly a fashion magazine, but it’s certainly aspiring to be seen as a upscale one, with focus on intelligent content and an appealing layout. Diesel seems to be taking it seriously- since it’s everywhere in the magazine this month. Kalki Koechlin wears Diesel on the cover and the photo feature inside, the inside cover two-page ad is Diesel, and there’s a special photo feature dedicated to a jacket’s multi-tasking ability. That jacket is, of course, a Diesel.

Kalki Koechlin in Women's Health Nov 2012

Bollywood Fashion: Sabyasachi dresses Sridevi as typical shypical housewife in English Vinglish

Bollywood Fashion: Sabyasachi dresses Sridevi as typical shypical housewife in English Vinglish

English Vinglish is among the most heartwarming movies I’ve seen recently and Sridevi’s performance was real, moving and tear-inducing. And the lucky leading lady has had the chance to wear Sabyaschi Mukherjee on-screen for the first time. (He wasn’t The Big Thing during her heydays).

As Shashi Godbole, Sridevi’s costumes are apt, true to the character and take her through the most exciting journey in her life. The clothes bind Shashi and set her free, they blend her into the crowd and make her stand out.

Sridevi in English Vinglish

Sridevi’s Look

Shashi Godbole is a typical Maharashtrian housewife- she puts family before self, loves making laddoos and has simple tastes. Sabyasachi and Gauri Shinde (the director) have underplayed the clothes in the movie, but if you’re an avid fashion buff, you’ll see the fashion arc as the story progresses.

Shashi Godbole is not a fashion follower nor is she ostentatious, so you won’t see her in sequins (not even on the wedding day) or low-cut blouses. On a typical day, she prefers cotton saris with a border and Indian hand-woven motifs or prints. Her colours are carefully chosen Indian palette: blues, greens, pinks, maroons. No Yashraj-style shaded saris or flowing georgettes- she is about sensible dressing, not sensuality. Hence the hanky curled in her hand at all times, and the long choti (plait).

Sridevi in English Vinglish

In bed, she wears light cotton saris (like the one below)- mostly white ones with small prints. I remember seeing my grandmom wearing those kind of saris almost everyday, they kept her cool in hot and humid Mumbai and seemed to be easy to drape.

Sridevi in English Vinglish

Sridevi in New York

Once in the US, Sridevi begins to experiment a bit. It’s her way of looking good in a big city where she is an obvious misfit because of her clothes and language problems. Some interesting pieces from the NYC wardrobe:

· Tiny Indian-style checkered saris with contrast borders (one sari has multiple borders)

· Bolder colours and prints for the days she’s happy (I spotted a couple of Sabyaschi’s standard prints- like this one below).

Sridevi in English Vinglish

· Playing with textures- a single sari has a hand-spun cotton pallu and pleats with a lighter hued body that could be in cotton silk.

Sridevi in English Vinglish

Sridevi imitates Elizabeth Taylor

The trench-coat-over-sari picture that you’ve probably seen in the publicity stills is the only style statement in the film with a story behind it. While shopping in India, Sridevi tries on a trench coat at a mall, only to be mocked at by her husband. In New York, she watches The Last Time I saw Paris in which the elegant Elizabeth Taylor wears a trench coat. Out steps Shashi, wearing a trench coat, in the peak of summer, right under the blazing sun. It’s a liberating moment for Shashi, and if you’ve ever been told what not to wear by someone, you will know exactly what it feels like.

Sridevi’s accessories

In true Maharashtrian style, Shashi dons minimal jewellery, wearing what most married Indian women wear- mangalsutra, thin gold bangles, gold baalis and tiny studs. Sometimes there’s a thin black watch, and of course there’s a bindi.

Shashi’s handbags are Hidesign’s Estelle and Arno- functional as multi-purpose bags to store a dozen things, including some stationery for English class. 🙂

Sridevi with the Estelle bag

Bollywood Fashion: Heroine fashion is dull and uninspiring

Bollywood Fashion: Heroine fashion is dull and uninspiring

When I watched Heroine, I came back unimpressed- with the movie, most of its elements, and Kareena Kapoor’s wardrobe.

Kareena looks gorgeous for sure, and she has a powerful role as Mahi Arora the superstar, but her on-screen wardrobe is nothing to write home about. Manish Malhotra and his team have kept her wardrobe updated with some trends, but they mostly lack a punch. Most of the outfits fail to make an impression, while most are repetitive.

Kareena Kapoor in Heroine

For instance, while depicting Mahi’s shoots, we usually see her dancing in heavily sequined dresses (like all Bollywood songs are like that!), though at a couple of film shoots she is dressed in ethnic clothes.

Mahi- not a style icon

A superstar in today’s times is not just an actor, but also a fashion icon and trendsetter, much like Kareena herself. She is known for making saris on the red carpet glamourous, staying covered up and feminine (she rarely sports cleavage or super short hemlines). She carefully steers clear trends like bodycon dresses (though she has a lovely figure), and likes to have fun once in a while with prints and silhouettes.

Kareena Kapoor at Indian Idol

Mahi, on the other hand, makes no style statements, though she does dress well and looks gorgeous almost all the time. Mahi’s off-screen avatar is a tad more interesting, like the blazer she wears to a store opening in Delhi and the long kurta-churidar at a wedding (obviously designed by Manish Malhotra). And the resort look for the yacht getaway with hottie Randeep Hooda.

Kareena Kapoor in Heroine

Mahi’s at-home clothes are a tad more interesting, like the black top with shoulder holes paired with dark green skinny jeans, and the printed long top she wears as a dress.

Fashion repetition

A word on red carpet dressing- while Kareena looks stunning in the red gown and statement neckpiece at her movie premier, the look reminded me of the auction scene from Agent Vinod- from the silhouette to choice of accessory. Oh, and the semi-sheer Halkat Jawaani blouse reminded me of the red blouse Kareena wore in Chammak Challo (Ra.One).

Kareena Kapoor in Heroine

A word on Kareena Kapoor’s makeup

The winner in the movie is Kareena Kapoor’s makeup (done by Mickey Contractor). Not only does the actor look gorgeous in every scene, the no-makeup looks are almost realistic. You can see her under eye dark circles when she is home, and her chapped lips when she shuts herself at home for several days.

Chic Guide: Top 5 things to do this week

Chic Guide: Top 5 things to do this week

Watch: BE BLUNT with Adhuna Akhtar

Every fashionista loves a makeover show. This time, celeb hairstylist Adhuna Akhtar, along with Osh Bhabani wield their styling tools to transform girls from across India. The women get a fab hair makeover and a new look in this six-part series. And they get to meet their fave Bollywood stars too. 😉

BE BLUNT with Adhuna Akhtar 2

BE BLUNT with Adhuna Akhtar will air every night, 10 pm starting July 16- only on TLC.

Buy: Batman tees

Batman fans are in for a double treat this week. First, The Dark Knight Rises releases this weekend, and second- exclusive Batman tees! French Connection’s limited edition range of Batman tees feature comic book illustrations that fan boys will love (sorry, girls- tees are for guys only).

FC City Scape Bat universal teeBatman FC Fight Universal Tee

Batman tees are available at select French Connection stores across India for Rs 1699. Limited stock available.

Look After: Your leather bag

A wet leather bag is never good news. Here’s what you can do to keep it looking as good as new in the monsoon:

  • Pat your wet leather with a soft cloth.
  • Let your bag dry out in a naturally dry place or air-conditioned room. Don’t leave it under direct sunlight!
  • Invest in an appropriate cream or wax for your bag- choose one that actually “moisturizes” your accessory. Use it after the bag is completely dry.
  • Store your leather bag in a cloth bag to protect it from dust and moisture. Do remember to air it once in a while.

Hidesign leather bag

(Tips from Hidesign).

Shop till you drop: 50-50 at Oberoi Mall

This Wednesday, Mumbai will head to Oberoi Mall for its bi-annual 50-50 sale. During this one-day-only offer, 50 brands at the suburban mall will offer FLAT 50% off on their merchandise. There’s fashion (Jack & Jones, Wills Lifestyle, Jashn), beauty, department stores (Lifestyle, Central) and even food counters participating!

50-50 sale is on Wednesday, July 18 only at Oberoi Mall, Goregaon.

Talk about: Superdry coming to India

Superdry is not a new dry cleaning service. It’s a casual wear brand with unique urban clothing that’s set to enter India in partnership with Reliance Brands. Superdry fuses design influences, from Japanese graphics and vintage Americana, with the values of British tailoring, and has got unmistakable branding. Superdry offers mostly casual wear- t-shirts, jeans, sweaters, joggers, shirts, rugby shirts, polo shirts as well as bags and accessories. They have a premium approach with vintage detailing, tailored fits and bespoke fabrics- so expect higher pricing than other casual and sports wear brands Jack & Jones, Levi’s, Puma, Adidas etc. BTW, celeb fans of Superdry include David Beckham and Zac Efron.

Superdry in India

What are you planning to do this week?